We’ve always been a nation of chicken eaters but what did we do with all the wings in the past? Now people like my friend William Leigh, whom we visited yesterday at his brilliant Wishbone shrine to fried chicken in Brixton Village, just can’t get enough of them. He’s only been open a few weeks and has already re-configured his purchasing requirements from kilos to tonnes.

He does them spicy Korean style or good old buffalo. You can then grade up to diced thighs done with Thai flavours or more straight up salt and pepper. The Asian accents are no accident; in the east, the bonier bits of chicken are what everyone is after, including the neck and the feet. The excellent Heron Thai pub does a mean chicken paw soup. In our family growing up, the breast bits would be the last remaining parts of Mum’s chicken curry.

In New York’s Chinatown the Pecking Duck House gets through 1000 ducks a day and wisely now farms their own supply. I suggested to William that he starts planning to do the same; ethically reared fried chicken could give Nando’s a much required run for its money. He could also probably generate a source of wings and thighs that would cost him nothing by selling the breasts to dull Michelin restaurants at a premium and keeping the rest for himself.

Watch out for Wishbone; those wings will make them fly.